One of the things that I really like about Mazda is the range of vehicles on offer - whatever your needs or lifestyle there’s a car for you. They also have some wonderful special editions, something which I feel more manufacturers should turn their hand to. If you want more detailed information then just request a brochure from the Mazda website but without further ado, let’s take a look at some of the best cars Mazda has to offer:

New Mazda 2
A very new car, the Mazda 2 has a EuroNcap rating of 5 stars so it’s supremely safe. It is a supermini with some really funky looks and is lighter than many other cars in the same class - meaning it returns better fuel economy and offers good driving dynamics. To show just how good this car is, it was awarded ‘World Car of the Year’. For looks, I’d go with the 3 door Crystal White version, but the 5 door still retains great lines. Book a Test Drive

Mazda 3
More of a family hatch this model, think of the Audi A3 and you’ve got the right sort of car in mind. The Mazda 3 is a great car, but best served in the MPS hot hatch variety. This car has a lovely 2.3 litre turbo-charged engine that offers plenty of power - hitting 60 in just over 6 seconds. The 3 is also available as a saloon. Book a Test Drive

Mazda 6
The all new 6 is a great looking car. Arriving as both a saloon and a hatch (though of bigger appearance like a Vectra) the model choice is yours. The new version has been designed with ‘kizuna’ in mind, which is when the driver has a deeply involving experience with the car. I’ve no doubt they have achieved this, given that the car is both stylish and offers great driving dynamics. You’ll no doubt want the top of the range 2.5 litre MZR as that offers performance mated with class leading quietness. Book a Test Drive

Mazda MX-5
One of the most successful cars in the world and the most successful small sports car, the MX-5 is quintessential. You’ll probably see one wherever you are in the world, in whatever continent. This is how much they are loved. Rightly so. If you want great dynamics, get an MX-5. If you want a nice, refined Sunday driving sporty number, buy an MX-5.

If you want a small rear-wheel-drive sports car, get an MX-5. Finally, perhaps the biggest selling point is reliability here. This is a car that has been a true industry success story, so you’ll never have a problem getting parts or finding someone to fit them. Owners tend to love their MX-5 cars, so don’t be surprised to see some modified, with or without a hard top. A truly great car. Book a Test Drive

Mazda RX-8
The true performance based car in Mazda’s line up, the RX-8 is both famous and infamous. Famous because it offers a (now unique in road cars) rotary engine, that is small and light but chucks out a shedload of power. Unfortunately, it is also infamous because you’ll suffer from having to visit the petrol pumps quite often. Don’t let that put you off however.

I say don’t rule this car out because it offers truly exceptional power. From a mere 1.3 litre engine you’ll be hurtling along, all the way up to 9,000 rpm. That’s race car revving. Until you’ve experienced this, you’ve missed out. The RX-8 is not a cheap car to run, but is worth every penny if you want a unique coupe (with rear suicide doors), a tasteful interior and one of the best engines on the market. Book a Test Drive

So there we are, a run-down on what Mazda are currently offering. Mazda specialists (and stockists) will note that I’ve left a couple of cars off that are now being sold in the UK. The reason for this is that I’m going to look into them in a little more depth very soon. In the meantime, why not investigate the website of the ‘Which Carmaker of the Year 2008‘?

Rarely, if ever, are there cars that go on and on.  Part of that is our own innate stupidity – we will forget to service them, or think that the interval can wait a little longer if money is tight that month.  Intervals are made known by the manufacturer for a very clear reason – to ensure that your motor is safe to use, week in, week out.

Granted, most minor problems tend to be of a cosmetic nature.  We, as a nation, have issues with parked cars.  Namely, they sometimes become obstacles that we fail to avoid, and not just when parking.  Nonetheless, a quick touch-up is frequently what’s required in this case.  Is it worth it?  Well, certainly, especially if it happens to be on the metalwork.

My first car is a perfect example of, at least at first, very little being wrong.  However, a catalogue of misfortune soon added up to make me think that the bloody thing was cursed.  It started with the battery (or so I thought) repeatedly failing.  Was it that?  No, it turned out that the boot light was staying on, in my Fiat Punto Sporting.  Very annoying.  This was rectified fairly quickly.

Unfortunately, the second problem it had was a tad more worrying – a rather close run-in with a police car resulted in a tyre being blown.  Again, just one of those things, but still it does make you wonder.  The final issue though was the straw that would have broken my back, quite literally.  If you’ve ever been in a car that has brake line failure then you share my horror moment – when you press the slow pedal and nothing happens.  It certainly gives you the chills and is better than any rollercoaster for making you feel afraid.  After that, I simply had to let my car go.

Of course, then there are other issues that people don’t consider, some cases in point being when they don’t regularly check lines and levels of the various fluids that a car needs in order to operate, let alone operate safely.  Cam (timing) belts are always of particular concern.  Find out when your car needs it replaced, otherwise be prepared for potentially a costly engine rebuild as if it snaps you can bend the valves and all manner of other gubbins can be wrecked.

Finally, if we’re talking about car upkeep and repair in general, take your car on a reasonably long trip every so often.  Get to know it.  This way, you’re in a better position to realise when something is amiss, whether it’s through a squeak, a rattle or good old ‘something doesn’t feel right‘.

Well, don’t say that we don’t care about you all, dear readers. This is especially the case when our cars disengage their handbrakes and simply smash into inanimate objects. To get an idea of how bad the damage can be, check out the photos below from one reader.

Naturally, I couldn’t just let this lie. So, I decided to find out what those at Vauxhall had to say. I didn’t get a response at first, but a little perseverance can go a long way. After a little while, I decided to take it further. To General Motor’s credit, I got a reply from Denis Chick, who is none other than the Director of Communications for GMUK (that’s the brands Hummer, Vauxhall, Saab, Cadillac, Corvette and Opel).

Here’s what he had to say:
“The Vauxhall handbrake story is well documented having been featured on Watchdog and in Which? magazine a number of times. The summary up front of the thread is rather ‘old news’ by now and contains errors.

Vectra has been dealt with as below.

On the Corsa, Watchdog informed us of every case that was brought to their attention so that we could investigate each one. They have informed us of less than 10 cases so to suggest that the Watchdog Corsa number is in triple figures is wrong. On Vectra there was a more significant number which enabled a much more detailed investigation. The consistency of the Vectra test results concluded that a service action was necessary on that model.

Attached are the statements relating to Vectra and Corsa. The Vauxhall retail network is well aware of the status on both models (clearly so on Vectra where the service action is in hand) so there is no need for a ’stoney silence’, although again this may be historic and relating to the period before the company made the first formal statement.

On Vectra, the modification programme, which includes a new spring in the mechanism, is still underway but well through the bulk of the volume. On all Corsa investigations to date (on a relatively small number of vehicles) have found no fault with the handbrake mechanism. Long term tests are ongoing on this model.

You will note that we continue to suggest that when the vehicle is parked, along with the handbrake application, a gear should be selected.”

In reference to the Corsa handbrake statement from Watchdog, I have included this below. Bear in mind that this is only a statement of intent based on the cases that Watchdog have raised – which to my knowledge is not that many.

CORSA D HANDBRAKES – WATCHDOG STATEMENT APRIL 2008

The Safety and Quality of Vauxhall products remains our highest priority. The action that we have taken on Vectra/Signum handbrakes demonstrates that we care about any potential issues arising with our products.
We will investigate the cases that Watchdog has raised on Corsa D.

Vauxhall also reconfirms that, at all times, when parking their vehicle on a slope, customers should continue to engage a gear when the vehicle is stationary, the handbrake is applied without depressing the release button and the engine is switched off, in line with the recommendations referenced in the owner’s manual and in the official Highway Code.
Vauxhall Motors Limited
April 2008

Let’s move on to the Vectra/Signum shall we? Once again, we have another statement. This time we’re looking at information from the Customer Satisfaction Programme. So, let’s take a look:

Statement on Vectra/Signum Handbrake Customer Satisfaction Programme – January 2008

Following a small number of complaints of Vectra and Signum vehicles rolling away due to allegedly ineffective handbrakes, Vauxhall Motors Limited engineers, along with consultant engineers, suppliers and other bodies, have conducted rigorous technical tests on those vehicles.

During its extensive test programme, Vauxhall reviewed a number of handbrake mechanisms and found that when the handbrake is applied by depressing the release button, it is possible to manipulate the handbrake mechanism so as to cause it to release partially.

Vauxhall advised customers in October 2007 that when parking their vehicle, customers should always apply the handbrake and engage a gear in line with the recommendations referenced in the owner’s manual and in the official Highway Code, especially when parking on a slope.

Vauxhall believes that the handbrake system used in the Vectra and Signum is safe, however, Vauxhall treats all matters relating to the safety of its products as its highest priority. In line with this priority and that of continuous improvement, Vauxhall has decided to implement, as a Customer Satisfaction Programme, a modification to the handbrake mechanism to reduce the possibility of a partial release when incorrectly setting the handbrake.

Owners of c250,000 manual transmission Vectra and Signum models (produced from 2002) will receive a letter from the company requesting that they contact their nearest retailer to arrange for the modification, at no cost to the customer. Vauxhall Motors Limited is launching this Customer Satisfaction Programme in agreement with the Vehicle and Operator Services Agency (VOSA), an executive agency of the Department of Transport. Note that this is not a safety recall.

Vauxhall reconfirms that, at all times, irrespective of the modification, when parking their vehicle on a slope, customers should continue to engage a gear when the vehicle is stationary, the handbrake is applied without depressing the release button and the engine is switched off, in line with the recommendations referenced in the owner’s manual and in the official Highway Code.

This Customer Satisfaction Programme will be carried out on a phased basis. Exact start timing will be based upon parts availability. Vectra and Signum owners who have concerns about their car should call Vauxhall Customer Service on 0845 090 2044 or via email at vauxhall.customerassistance@uk.gm.com.

Vauxhall Motors Limited
January 2008

So there we have it. Does this mean that there are endemic problems with Vauxhall handbrakes in a number of their vehicles? Well, I don’t think that you can say that. Then again, perhaps there are enough complaints here alone for Vauxhall to take another look. Bear in mind that long term tests are ongoing, so there is still a chance for Vauxhall to hear your complaint. Please keep the comments coming in regards to this issue and I’ll provide more updates as and when we receive them.

…Could fit on the back of an A1 sized poster.  It might seem like a bit of an odd start to a post, but I really couldn’t help myself.  As I’m known for having a bit of knowledge about cars, sometimes I get asked by friends, relatives and the like what might get up with their car, or indeed which new car to buy if they are lucky enough to be getting one.

The interesting question I got that sparked the idea for this post was from a colleague at work (who for obvious reasons will remain nameless).  A while ago she had an old Rover (never a good start in your motoring career really as you could potentially be spending more time on the hard shoulder than anywhere else) that I diagnosed as having an alternator problem.  Lo and behold, I was correct.  Naturally, when she started having problems with her new Ford Ka I was the person she turned to.

Apparently, the issue was related to a grinding noise that she had when turning the wheel and sometimes under braking.  I was going to have a quick look after work but unfortunately got held up in a meeting, so off she went duly driving the car with some sort of problem.  I gave her a call and she went through the symptoms again.  I had a quick think, consulted the trusty Haynes and told her that she needed to check her fuel levels.

She came into work the next day, informing me that I was in fact correct – the fuel levels were too low, the mechanicals weren’t getting lubricated and the grinding noise was the car informing her of this fact.  She’d got the fluid topped up, only to discover there was a leak.  This also explained the fact that the car didn’t have enough fluid when she’d only had it a week.

Naturally, I had two questions for her.  First, did the dealer not have it serviced and checked before selling it on?  Second, did she not think to check under the bonnet herself to try to discern if everything looked as it should?  Apparently, the answer to both was no.

This draws me to the point of this article.  I find it quite amazing that there are so many people out there who don’t know their spark plugs from their elbow.  The amount of people I’ve seen by the roadside recently with SOMEONE ELSE having to pull over to change a tyre for them has simply been staggering.  I’m not saying that everyone should be able to service their own vehicle but being able to check oil levels for instance is crucial.

I know that not everyone is the type who has to at least partially know how something works before using it, but in my opinion it should be mandatory that a learner driver must know how to check fluid levels before being given a ‘Pass’ certificate.  For those of you out there who are quite content in your ignorance, I’ll give you another article in the future which you can refer to make sure that your car has enough doodads and thingumies to keep running smoothly.

I’d say that currently the Nissan GT-R is probably one of the baddest, meanest, fastest cars on the market – or at least it will be when available over here.  That’s a shame in a way, because Europe really should be the home of fast, sporty cars that everyone lusts after.  However, the GT-R will even leave a Audi R8 standing, so we’re left really with few options.  If you did want something from the true home of the supercar (Italy by the way, in case you weren’t paying attention), luckily Ferrari will give you something that you can almost blast off in.  That car is the F430 Scuderia.

The Ferrari F430, it would be fair to say, is very similar to the F430.  But only in so far as looks are concerned.  It would be an injustice to say that is it the same car, because underneath the bonnet (and along with plenty of the design) there are significant changes.

Weight of course is always an issue, and cars have indeed been getting heavier (but as I pointed out in my last article, a good deal of that weight is used to create safety structures to protect us in the event of a crash).  However, this often means that a car with more power will do the same speed as last year’s model, as the weight has gone up.  Not so with the Scuderia, the weight has in fact gone down.  It comes in at only 1350kg, a whole 100kg less than the standard car.

Both power and torque are up, with the 4.3 litre engine really going for it by providing 503bhp and 470Nm.  Tell that to your diesel driving mate and see the look on their face.  Naturally, the standard manifolds and intakes wouldn’t be enough, so plenty of these are finished by hand.  The exhaust system is now also more free-breathing to give the engine even more life.

Naturally, it’s no use having all that power if you have a duff gearbox.  Ferrari have learnt from their F1 success here and provided the ‘Superfast2’ – this thing will switch ratios (think cogs) in 60 milliseconds.  Luckily, this will drive the Scuderia hard.  So hard in fact, that the 0-60 time of only 3.6 seconds is the same as that of the GT-R.

Of course, the need to get all that power onto the road requires something more than driver skill.  This is where the very clever E-diff comes into play, giving four modes that have a huge impact on the stability and traction control of the car.  This switch is on the steering wheel, just as you would find it on an F1 car.  So, all very inspiring so far.

Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately, depending on how much of a purist you are), this is case of paying more to get less.  You see, the £172,500 price tag is rather steep.  Especially given that it is about 50 big ones more than a bog-standard F430.  What do you get ‘extra’ for your money apart from more power?  Let’s take a look.

Carbon ceramic brakes are standard on this beast of a car – and you’ll need them when you are trying to stop at 199mph.  Just remember, you need some heat in them to make them work.  Naturally you don’t get carpet, whilst lightweight specialist sport seats and swatches of carbon fibre keep the curb weight nice and lean.  Fantastic.

The exterior is great.  The F430 is in my opinion a car that you’ll love or hate visually.  I really fall into the latter category.  This one looks even better, with 20 inch alloys, a lowered ride height and a lovely baby blue finish – though I doubt they call it that.

There are rumours that it is quicker than an Enzo – though personally I feel that is not the point.  The fact that the dynamics were honed by a certain M Schumacher is much more to the point.  So, if you’re a playboy or a Russian mafia type, I’d say this is the car to go for.  Especially if you like the odd blast around the track.  Just remember, the £100,000 you’re spending on this instead of 2 GT-R’s will be worth it!

Lewis Hamilton, the Great British hopeful who missed out on becoming one of F1’s youngest ever champions by an incredible one point last year has managed to clinch pole position for this year’s Grand Prix in Australia. This is the seventh pole of his F1 career and should provide an excellent start for the young driver.

Hamilton’s McLaren team mate Heikki Kovalainen (a Finn who previously drove for Renault F1 in 2007) will feature in row two of the grid alongside Felipe Massa - the now Ferrari driver. This should be quite useful for tactical plays between the team-mates, always useful for the early races.

Kimi Raikkonen (not my favourite driver, but someone I have a lot of respect for the skill of unlike Fernando Alonso, who is now the driver for Renault and places at 12th place) has placed all the way down the field to 16th after he came to halt in the pit lane during the qualifier.

Due to the new F1 rule set (something I’ll cover in another post), Raikkonen was not allowed to participate in the second session even if his car was ready to go, due to the help he received from mechanics in the pit lane.

So, how does the grid line up for the first race of the season overall? Well here are the times from every qualifying racer:

Times
01. Hamilton McLaren-Mercedes 1:26.714
02. Kubica BMW Sauber 1:26.869
03. Kovalainen McLaren-Mercedes 1:27.079
04. Massa Ferrari 1:27.178
05. Heidfeld BMW Sauber 1:27.236
06. Trulli Toyota 1:28.527
07. Rosberg Williams-Toyota 1:28.687
08. Coulthard Red Bull-Renault 1:29.041
09. Glock Toyota 1:29.593
10. Vettel Toro Rosso-Ferrari No time
11. Barrichello Honda 1:26.173
12. Alonso Renault 1:26.188
13. Button Honda 1:26.259
14. Nakajima Williams-Toyota 1:26.413
15. Webber Red Bull-Renault No times
16. Raikkonen Ferrari No time
17. Fisichella Force India-Ferrari 1:27.207
18. Bourdais Toro Rosso-Ferrari 1:27.446
19. Sutil Force India-Ferrari 1:27.859
20. Sato Super Aguri-Honda 1:28.208
21. Piquet Renault 1:28.330
22. Davidson Super Aguri-Honda 1:29.059

Of course, I’d love to see Lewis Hamilton take the win. He seems to be a genuinely nice guy and if his performance on Top Gear is anything to go by, he’s even faster than the mighty Stig. As Anthony Davidson has been on television I’d love to see him win a point in the Super Aguri-Honda car - he’s been claimed to be one of the better drivers on the grid and only a weaker car has slowed him down. I can’t wait to see the season start - it’s sure to be a very strong one this year.

I’d like to say a hello first of all, as a new writer to Car Articles.  As a way of introduction, I’m a writer based in the North of England with a wide variety of experience with cars - both new and vintage.  The fastest thing I’ve driven is probably a Porsche 911 that had enough torque to pull your head off.  The slowest remains a Fiat Punto 1.2 with less than 100 hp but an amazing 47 miles per gallon fuel economy.

With the introduction out of the way, I’d like to offer this rather interesting tale.  I was driving my car, which had recently been for a service, when I started to hear a squeak from the front wheels (mainly the right side though).  This squeak gradually turned into a squeal.  This squealing soon extended itself from merely a passing irritation into a really annoying, near-constant noise from hell.

Let me clarify the problem a little bit.  The noise wasn’t caused by worn brake pads - I’d had these changed only a month before.  Not only that, but the squeal only appeared when I WASN’T using the brakes.  So just what was going on?

My motor (a Vauxhall Astra 1.8 SXi) was duly returned to the servicing garage, to find out what on Earth was the matter.  It was of course looked over and the verdict returned.  It passed an MOT satisfactorily but more copper grease (or slip) needed to be applied in order to stop the friction that was being created and as a consequence making a noise.

Not wanting to pay the extra cost (I knew that I was getting the timing belt changed anyway so thought I’d leave it till then) I got my car back with the squeal.  Naturally, I decided to look into the problem.  I narrowed it down to a few things such as a bent brake disc (bad news), worn callipers or the cheapest (and best option) a simple case of too much built up brake dust.

When you apply pressure to the brake pedal, this transfers hydraulically to the wheels, where callipers clamp down and put pads into contact with the disc.  This creates the friction that in turn stops the car.  Braking 101 for you there.  However, when a new pad is fitted, copper grease should be added to the disc to move away heat and allow smooth movement of the whole machinery as the wheel turns.

Essentially, my car wasn’t properly looked after (quite embarrassing for a car nut).  A build up of brake dust (the particles from a pad) got onto the disc, so when the wheel turns into a certain point, the noise was being made - essentially a high frequency vibration.  This is in turn no good for your car really and can in fact damage your alloys.

So baring all this in mind, what would I suggest?  Make sure that your car is looked after, your alloys are clean and your brakes are squeal free.  Of course, having the brakes squeal when you’re applying pressure to the pedal signifies a completely different set of problems that I’ll address another time…

N.B. There’s a whole host of alloy cleaners that are on the market.  I used Simoniz on mine as it contains brake dust repellent.  Let me know what you try and if it’s any good.

It seems that costs of driving could be leading the UK’s drivers into leaving repairs that are needed on the their cars, this is leading to many more accidents on the country’s roads than would normally happen if these cars were kept in proper working order with all repairs no matter how minor being done as when needed.

This is so serious that it is estimated that around twenty three million people are putting their lives not to mention that of their families, friends and other road users too. All this risk is being taken when they are fully aware that their vehicle has something wrong with it that should be fixed as soon as possible.

This research has been under taken by the insurer esure who asked drivers about their driving habits and more importantly how the maintain their vehicles. They found that many drivers are ignoring the warning lights that become illuminated on the cars dash board. The main reason for this is the thought of how much the repair is going to cost, rather than worrying about their safety.

The survey also found that vehicle owners would rather spend money on leisure activities than on a simple fault that has appeared on their vehicle. Yet even a minor fault could lead to an accident and all sorts of problems.

Source [Lombard Direct]

With wet and icy conditions sweeping across the UK, new research has revealed that one-in-ten cars – the equivalent to 2.7 million nationwide – have a tyre fitted with tread that is below the current 1.6mm legal threshold. The survey also showed that 19 per cent of cars are being driven on tyres with tread that is below 2mm the depth at which a number of leading national car fleet owners change their tyres. Research by the Motor Industry research association showed that in wet conditions it takes nearly eight meters more to stop from 50 mph when tyres are worn down to the legal minimum of 1.6mm.

“Driving on excessively worn tyres is dangerous at any time of the year” said ford parts representative. “But in icy conditions it really is gambling with yours and other road users lives”.

AA Warranty recommends you get your car checked out regularly while under warranty as this can save a fortune in replacement parts. AA Warranty is also urging motorists to consider mechanical breakdown cover and take it more seriously. According to the AA research, the most likely car part to fail during winter is the ignition coil pack – costing on average £180 to replace. This is closely followed by the cylinder head gasket, where a replacement can cost up to £390. Among other car parts in the top 10 list of probable failures are engines, gear box car parts, ECU’s, alternators and starter motors.

When most cars are four years old, the manufacturers warranty has long expired, replacement parts should be obtained from Genuine parts suppliers to ensure the new parts are covered under warranty and are and exact replacement.

Guest Article by www.fordsparts.co.uk

Buying a car involves a lengthy decision making process involving an array of influencing factors; colour is one of the most important among them. The colour renders a personality to your car— black is cool, silver is stylish without being ostentatious, red is sensual and white cars are conservative!

But just a few years on the road and the car loses its original colour and showroom shine—the white that once made the swan feel proud is now shabby grey; the luscious red has lost all its luster, the elegant black no longer looks glamorous and the radiant silver now looks worn away.

But you can turn the clock and set things right—-what you need is knowledge about proper car paint care. The article below tells you what affects your car paint and shine, how to avoid problems and how to restore back the lost luster of your pretty car.

Resist the environmental damage

Vehicles come with a range of finishes— matt coating, acrylic, enamel, etc. Regardless of the type of finish, the exteriors of all vehicles are subject to environmental wear and tear. To protect the paint of the car from the invasion of these environmental factors you should go through a preventive maintenance regimen.

For example, how do you deal with the ultra violet rays that come along with sun exposure that eventually diminishes the gloss on your vehicle finish? Because metal retains heat, it causes permanent stains. You have to use protective coatings and sealants to neutralize the effects of ultra violet rays.

The next factor is chemical abuse that results from air pollutants transformed into sulfuric or nitric acids. These acids, can be deposited onto your vehicle in either a wet or dry state and slowly eat up the paint. To resist this kind of damage, you need to go for frequent washing.

Your car often becomes the victim of the road salts triggering off the chemical reactions that can accelerate the pitting and rusting of the car’s surfaces. Many out-of-sight areas including the undercarriage are especially prone to assault of the road salts.

You have to resort to a specialized undercarriage rinse in combination with rust inhibiting agents to deal with these kinds of damage.

Nothing can replace the benefits of regular washing

It is important to have a car wash at least once a month. The moistures can not accumulate on the car body, when it is clean; the moistures gain hold in the dirty areas and lead to corrosion.

Go for a pressure wash from time to time to dislodge the dirt especially from the areas like behind the moldings, inside wheel arches, under the bumpers etc.

After-winter is the best time for pressure wash as it drives out all the salt accumulations that speed up the corrosion process.

Follow the washing with waxing for the enhancement of visual appearance of a finish

Wax your car regularly for the maximum protection of the paint and minimizing harm of chemicals. This gives the paint protection from fading and keeps the car looks shiny.

It should only take 30 minutes to wax a whole car.

Use high quality car wax and rest assured for three - four months.

Repair the chips and scratches

For the prominent chips, you have to order matching spray paint from the manufacturers and apply the paint with the help of a toothpick. You can also fill up the scratches the same way.

Use Polishing compounds for repairing the minor scratches and chips.

Invest some time for trying the above mentioned cleaning steps—you will feel proud to move around in your gorgeous car for years.

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