Well, as my last post was discussing the purchase of a used MX-5 (though preferably in good condition), I thought it only fair to talk you through some of the issues I’ll be considering prior to making the all-important purchase (as well as being before the next Formula 1 race).
Buying a used car can be risky – but only if you don’t know what you’re looking for. A car that has been carefully looked after and regularly serviced should be just as reliable as a car fresh off the forecourts – if not more so as the engine will be worn in. So what sort of things should you look for when going used?
Generally speaking, the average motorist will do around 10,000 miles per annum. This means that a car should reflect this – so a three-year-old vehicle could be expected to have reasonably covered 30,000 miles. If the odometer is reading say 30 miles instead – be concerned. The car may have been ‘clocked’ – whereby with some careful screw removal the numbers can be turned back.
A false reading means that there could well have been much more engine use than you thought. MOT’s should be able to give you a clearer picture of this. Check the regular touch-points like the wheel, the gearstick and the pedals. Are they worn? This is a sign that the car has also seen regular use – not necessarily bad thing, but it may indicate that other parts of kit might need looked at, such as the brakes (pads and discs), the clutch and the air filter.
One thing that always amazes me is when a car owner complains that ‘something has gone wrong’ and the car isn’t up to scratch, yet they haven’t bothered servicing it. An MOT means the car is legally allowed on the road, whether it is in sufficiently good nick to then sell on is another matter. If a car hasn’t got a lot of servicing records, you might be better off just walking away.
If you consider that the engine is the heart of the car, then if it has been looked after then you’re probably going to be okay. On the other hand, the body is, well, literally the body. I know someone who bought a car with a rear bumper that had been concertina’ed. Modern cars are made to crumple yet be incredibly safe. They’ll be okay in one crash, but then need repairing to ensure they are fit to survive another – much like cycling helmets in that respect. Make sure to look at all bodywork before handing over your cash.
Be wary of ‘cut and shut’ cars. This is literally the worst-case scenario of a car you can buy. It means two cars have been cut somewhere in their middles (for whatever reason) and then welded together. Basically, the structural integrity (as any engineer worth his salt will tell you) has been completely compromised. One crash, or even taking a corner too fast, could see the car shearing. Look for any signs of welding, anywhere on the body.
HPI may be left on the car, or any other type of finance. Some people in the past (I’m sure it goes on today, but with less frequency) sold a car, along with the finance to go along with it, unbeknownst to the driver. A solution is to use a car data check, which will tell you of any crashes, write-offs or finance agreements on a particular vehicle.
I’ll go into detail on the mechanical side of what to look for in a later post, but for some more general tips, consider the following:
* Budget well – and stick to it. Insurance and general day-to-day costs must be factored in.
* Check similar cars to make sure that you aren’t being ripped off either by price or mileage.
* The V5 car registration document is incredibly important – don’t buy a car without one. It shows the ‘keeper’ not the owner, so be aware of this fact.
* Listen to the car and test-drive it if at all possible.
* These days, it’s possible to grab a great bargain used vehicle – especially this year, what with the economy driving depreciation to 8% more than it was projected at. However if something looks too good to be true, there’s probably a reason – it is.
Overall, buying a used car is much more fun than buying new – what with the boring ‘extras’ list and what have you. There’s nothing like sitting in a few different cars and getting a feel for them, before handing over the cash for your new pride and joy. Just remember to play it sensible (and safe) and you should do well in getting yourself a brilliant used bargain!
admin says
March 20, 2008 at 9:34 amGreat advice – a much better version than our old articles about on the same subject!
Mr Butterscotch says
March 20, 2008 at 10:39 amThere’s just so much to say on this topic that it’s unreal. I’d like to follow this article up with a ‘102’ version. I’ve got quite a funny used car story to tell actually.
A relative of mine recently found a Ford Ka on an 02 plate, with only 20k on the clock. They were told it would cost £250 – this is one of those situations where the deal is too good to be true – the list price should have been about 11x more than that.
On making the purchase, they found out two days later that the seller (a family friend) had actually asked for £2500. Both parties were very red faced but the money was paid and the car is a decent runner. Not so much of a bargain anymore, but still a reasonable deal!
admin says
March 20, 2008 at 10:44 amLOL 🙂
We sold an 02 plate Ford Ka last year but didn’t have any of that confusion. We ended up just trading it in for £2300 so it sounds like we didn’t get the best price!
Mr Butterscotch says
March 20, 2008 at 1:21 pmWell, a trade-in will never give you full list value, even if you go into the forecourt with an immaculate vehicle and full service history. Then again, it saves the hassle of selling privately.
admin says
March 20, 2008 at 2:19 pmyeah the lack of hassle ended up being the deciding factor!